Perfect Leaves Convertible Mitts

Last August I got to visit Melbourne for the first time. I was staying with a friend and we'd arranged to go camping at the Cathedral Ranges for a few days. I knew it would be extra cold, so I wanted something to keep my fingers warm but also allow me some dexterity. I had seen other convertible mitt patterns, but they were all quite plain. And so these mitts were born!

For more pictures, see my Ravelry project page
You'll see the top/left mitt has a closed thumb and the bottom/right mitt has an open thumb

Equipment:

Yarn: 8ply. I used Cleckheaton Perfect Day with Chocolate for the main colour and Chocolate Natural Marl for the contrast.

Needles: 4mm. I prefer 1 long circular (60cm+) in the magic loop or 2 shorter circulars. DPNs can also be used.

Sizing: These were designed for me, but should fit most women with averaged sized hands. The cuff circumference measures approx 16cm but will stretch to about 26cm. From the base of the thumb to the top of the mitt measures 12cms (this would be from the base of your thumb to the top of your middle finger. If you would like to know any other measurements, please leave a comment.

Approx gauge: 23sts & 32 rows to 10cm in stockinette

Pattern:

I have written a chart for the lace section of the pattern to keep the written instructions as easy as possible. You can view/download the PDF here. If you have any troubles with with the chart, please leave your questions in the comments and I'll respond to you as soon as I can.

Abbreviations:

K2tog - knit two together

SSK - slip slip knit

YO - yarn over

BC - border colours

MC - main colour

PM - place marker

SM - slip marker

RM - remove marker

Tip

In the lace pattern, there is a part where you have to do a yarn over followed by a purl stitch. If you're new to lace, you might have found this a bit confusing - I know I did the first time! The trick is to wrap the yarn around the needle - bring yarn to front under the needle as you would for a regular YO, take it back over the top of the needle then bring to front under the needle - then work the purl stitch.

I made my mitts using the magic loop method, as I find this the easiest way of working in the round. Choose whichever method works best for you. 

Cast on 38 sts. Join in the round. The first 19 sts will form the back of the hand and the second 19sts the palm of the hand and the thumb.

Work 10 rows of K1P1 rib using BC.

Change to MC. 

The lace pattern is only worked on the first 19 sts

Errata: On row 39 for both left and right mitts, ALL of the stitches between the markers are held.

RIGHT MITT

Use Right Hand lace pattern

Rnd 11-14: Work rows 1-4 of lace pattern with first 19 sts, K remaining sts

Rnd 15: Work row 5 of lace pattern, PM, KFB x 2, PM, (this will become the thumb). K remaining sts

Rnd 16-19: Work rows 6-9 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 20: Work row 10 of lace pattern. SM, K1, yo, K2, yo, K1, SM, K remaining sts

Rnd 21-24: work rows 11-14 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 25: work row 15 of lace pattern, SM, K1, yo, K4, yo, K1, SM, K remaining sts

Rnd 26: work row 16 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 27-29: Work rows 1-3 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 30: Work row 4 of lace pattern, SM, K1, yo, K6, yo, K1, SM, K remaining sts

Rnd 31-34: work rows 5-8 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 35: work row 9 of lace pattern, SM, K1, yo, K8, yo, K1, SM, K remaining sts

Rnd 36-38: works row 10-12 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 39: work row 13 of lace pattern, RM, K1, hold 12sts (use scrap yarn, a stitch holder or large safety pin) K1, RM, using backwards loop method cast on 2 sts, K remaining sts. 

(the pictures show 4 cast on stitches, that was my error)

Rnd 40-42: Work rows 14-16 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 43: work row 1 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 44: work row 2 of lace pattern, thread some yarn through sts just worked (these will be picked up again later to work the top of the mitt), K remaining sts

Change to BC. Work 11 rounds of K1P1 rib. Cast off using a stretchy cast off

LEFT MITT

Use Left Hand lace pattern

Rnd 11-14: Work rows 1-4 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 15: Work row 5 of lace pattern, K17, PM, KFB x 2, PM, (this will become the thumb).

Rnd 16-19: Work rows 6-9 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 20: Work row 10 of lace pattern, K17, SM, K1, yo, K2, yo, K1, SM,

Rnd 21-24: work rows 11-14 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 25: work row 15 of lace pattern, K17, SM, K1, yo, K4, yo, K1, SM

Rnd 26: work row 16 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 27-29: Work rows 1-3 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 30: Work row 4 of lace pattern, K17, SM, K1, yo, K6, yo, K1, SM

Rnd 31-34: work rows 5-8 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 35: work row 9 of lace pattern, K17, SM, K1, yo, K8, yo, K1, SM

Rnd 36-38: works row 10-12 of lace pattern to first marker, K remaining sts

Rnd 39: work row 13 of lace pattern, K17, RM, K1, hold 12sts (use scrap yarn, a stitch holder or large safety pin) K1, RM, using backwards loop method cast on 2 sts

Rnd 40-42: Work rows 14-16 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 43: work row 1 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 44: work row 2 of lace pattern, thread some scrap yarn through sts just worked (these will be picked up again later to work the top of the mitt), K remaining sts

Rnd 45-55: Change to BC. Work 11 rounds of K1P1 rib. Cast off using a stretchy cast off

If you want regular fingerless mitts, skip the instructions for the top of the mitt and move straight to the thumb instructions.

TOP OF MITT

Remember there are two charts, one for left and one for right. Be sure to use the correct chart for each mitt!

Rnd 1: Using MC, Pick up 19sts that you put the yarn through in Rnd 44 of the mitt. Work row 3 of lace pattern. Using backward loop method, cast on 21sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. 

Rnd 2-6: Work rows 4 to 8 of lace pattern, K1P1 rib on remaining sts (starts and ends with K)

Rnd 7-14: Works rows 9 to 16 of lace pattern, K remaining sts

Rnd 15-22: Work rows 1 to 8 of lace pattern

Rnd 23: Work row 1 of decrease chart, SSK, K 17, K2tog

Rnd 24: Work row 2 of decrease chart, K remaining sts

Rnd 25 Work row 3 of decrease chart, SSK, K15, K2tog

Rnd 26: Work row 4 of decrease chart, K remaining sts

Rnd 27: Work row 5 of decrease chart, SSK, K13, K2tog

Rnd 28: Work row 6 of decrease chart, K remaining sts

Rnd 29: Work row 7 of decrease chart, SSK, K2, SSK, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog

Rnd 30: Work row 8 of decrease chart,  K remaining sts

Rnd 31: Work row 9 of decrease chart, SSK, K9, K2tog

Rnd 32: Work row 10 or decrease chart, SSK, K7, K2tog

Bind off edges using kitchener stitch

THUMB:

This section is worked the same for both mitts.

Using BC, pick up 2 sts - one from cast on sts of row 39 of mitt pattern and one st from the side of a worked stitch, pick up held sts then pick up another 2 sts as before. (I tried to take pictures of this, but the yarn was too dark to be able to see anything useful. Leave a comment if you need more help)

For open thumbs: work 10 rounds of K1P1 rib (K all sts) and bind off using loose bind off method.

For covered thumbs: work 14 rounds of stockinette

Next row: (K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1) twice

Next row: K2tog to end

Break yarn, draw through stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

FINISHING:

Sew a button to the border between the ribbed cuff and body. Attach a loop of yarn at the top of the mitt big enough to go around the button. I used two strands twisted together.

Don't forget to link your projects with me on Ravelry so I can see how yours have turned out!

Twenty Twelve Tip #2 - Know your fibres

When I first started in yarn craft, I didn't know a lot about fibres. I based my choice of yarn on the colour, the squishyness/softness and, mostly, the price. As a result, I usually ended up buying acrylic yarn. It was cheap, easily obtainable, with lots of colours and usually felt silky smooth. I would use this yarn for all of my different projects. Now, don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with acrylic or other synthetic yarns, when tasked with the right project. I saw natural fibre yarns as more expensive and more scratchy, so I didn't usually bother with them.

It wasn't until last year that I really clued on to the fact that different fibres had different properties and you had to find the right project to take advantage of those properties, and not be hindered by it.

For example, all of my amigurumi projects are made with acrylic. Initially this was due to the colour and price factor, but I later learned that acrylic doesn't have a lot of elasticity - the yarn itself doesn't really stretch - which is what you want with amigurumi, so it keep its shape. 

Mr Minion here is made of acrylic yarn. If I'd chosen a different fibre, he might not have held his shape so well. The pattern can be found here

This inelastic quality isn't so good in other projects, such as hats. In a hat, you want it to be able to stretch. Some of the stretch comes from the cast on and stitch you use - such as the ribbed brim. But, depending on the style of hat, you also want the body to stretch. When you're wearing a beanie, you don't want to feel like your head is in a vice (this is not totally reliant on the yarn, it also comes from the sizing). And with a tam or beret style hat you usually need to block it. Blocking doesn't work so well with synthetics, but it works very well with natural fibres (wool, alpaca etc).

I made this hat using an acrylic yarn. While it was the colour and weight (and price!) I wanted, it didn't work out too well for the hat. It has no stretch in the body so when I tried to block it, I didn't get the outcome I wanted. It isn't all bad, but I think I will make it again using wool. Find the pattern here

So when you're planning your next project, think about what properties it needs and choose the yarn accordingly. I've only covered a few things, but there are plenty of websites that cover that go into more depth about the different qualities of different fibres. But the best way to learn is to try! Get some different types of yarn, knit up some swatches or samples and get a feel for how each of the different fibres work.

Tips and Patterns of Twenty Twelve #1 - Cast-ons

Last year was a big year for me. Lots of big life decisions and lots of crafting! I designed my own patterns for a few different items and had great plans if posting them here but never had the time. This year I will endeavor to write up and post my patterns.

In lieu of posting those patterns right now, but still wanting to get into the habit of posting more regularly, I thought I would share some of the things I learned and patterns I loved in 2012.

I think I would have to thank hat making as the trigger for developing a lot of my knitting skills. It was my unsuccessful search to find a crochet pattern for a hat that I liked that lead me to learn how to knit. Later, it was my quest to find the perfect hat to knit that lead to my discovery of Ravelry. It was also through hat making that I learnt that different techniques and different fibres don't all suit the same projects. Which brings us to to my first tip.

#1 - Not all cast-ons suit all projects
This might sound like a no-brainer to some of you, but I'm a self taught knitter. For years I knew one cast-on method (the knitted cast on) so I used that one cast-on. For everything. Gloves, hats, scarves, swatches; straight knitting or knitting in the round. I didn't really know it made that much of a difference. And the other cast-ons I'd tried seemed difficult or didn't look right to me.

Some of my favourite things to make are hats - they're quick, they're versatile and there are so many different patterns! I also have a bigger than average head. I was constantly having trouble getting the hats I made to fit. In the early days I didn't know that different cast-ons (and different fibres... but more on that in another post) could be more elastic. I would end up fiddling around with the number of cast-on stitches to get something big enough to fit my head, then fiddling around again after a couple of rows to adjust back to the original for the main pattern. But then my hats were ending up all loose around the brim. The rib stitch brim just didn't have that elasticity I saw in everyone else's hats. It took me about half a dozen hats to realise that if I used a stretchier cast on then my hats would fit much better without all of the fiddling around.

I learnt this through trial and error and also through trying to learn new things about knitting. YouTube is a great place to learn how to do new things, because you get to see people in action! Other knitting websites are also good to help you get an idea of what you're looking for before you get to YouTube. I learnt the most about the different types of cast-ons (and cast-off, increases and decreases) from KnittingHelp.com. 

In the photo below are two hats I made from the same pattern. The pink & grey hat was made first, using the "fudged numbers" and knitted cast-on. The red had was made with a backwards loop cast-on. You can see how the rib stitching on the red hat is more springy, the knit stitches sit out more and the purl stitches recede more. You can also see how the brim pulls in, making it narrower than the body of the hat (even though the brim was knitted with the same number of stitches on the same sized needles). In the pink and grey had, the knit & purl stitches sit more level and the brim doesn't pull in at all, leaving it level with the body. The red hat was made with 100% wool and the other with a wool/soy fibre blend. 

The hats you see above are from the pattern Fern Glade by Megan Marshall. This is the second hat pattern I knitted for myself. And I liked it so much I made another! I absolutely love the lace work and the winding 'vines'. There are only a few rows in the lace pattern so it's easy to remember after a few repeats. One little bit of advice though - place markers between each repeat! The first time I made this hat, as a beginner, I had a bit of trouble keeping track of where I was up to and often I would get to the end of the round and not have enough or have too many stitches to complete the last repeat! It's a lot easier to track down where you went wrong if you've got markers because you'll know at the end of the repeat you messed up, rather than at the end of the round. I'll do another post soon with tips on how to fix some of these mistakes without ripping back your work.

Basket Case Beanie

I recently discovered the magic loop knitting method (for a great instructional video, go here). I have tried knitting in the round with double pointed needles (DPNs) but found them a bit annoying due to the lack of flexibility. One of the first things I ever knit in the round was a tea cosy by Loani Prior and she uses 2 circular needles. I liked the method but it had 2 downfalls - you had to buy two of each circular, which can get expensive; and some projects ended up with a bit of a ladder in the gap between the last stitch on one needle and first needle on the next. The magic loop method doesn't really do this.

I'm currently working on a pair of socks using this method and a number of ladies at my craft group were interested to learn how to do it. They decided they wanted to make a beanie so I was tasked to find a pattern. I wanted something simple, but not boring. I like the basket weave stitch. It adds interest, but it has a pretty easy repeat to remember. I didn't like the decrease section of those I found - they didn't incorporate the basket weave. So I decided to write my own!

This hat only has 6 repeats of the basket weave, one less than suggested.

Equipment:

Yarn: 8ply. I have used acrylic, but anything could be used.

Needles: 4mm. I prefer 1 long circular (60cm+) in the magic loop or 2 shorter circulars. DPNs can also be used.

Sizing: The small beanie will fit a head circumference around 56cm; the large beanie will fit a circumference around 61cm (depending on tension). The small beanie should fit most people comfortably. I, however, have a large head, and there is nothing worse that a hat too tight!

Pattern:

Using your preferred method, cast on 113 sts for a small hat or 121sts for a large. The rest of pattern continues the same for both sizes, there is just an extra repeat of the pattern. Split stitches between DPNs or circular needle/s. Ensure the stitches aren’t twisted.

Band

Depending on what method you are using, you may need to place some kind of marker between the after the second last cast on stitch so you know when you’ve completed a round.

Move last cast on stitch onto same needle as first stitch. Knit the first and last stitch together to join work.

Work in K2P2 rib for 10 rounds or until band is desired length.

Body

Rnds 1-4: *K4, P4. Repeat from * around.

Rnds 5-8: *P4, K4. Repeat from * around.

Repeats rounds 1-8 at least 6 more times. If you like a slouchier hat, add more rounds in multiples of eight until the desired length (don’t forget there are also 13 rounds for the decrease).

Decrease

The basket weave pattern continues through the decrease

The number in the brackets is the number of stitches remaining, small hat first, large hat second.

Rnd 1: *K4, P2, P2tog. Repeat from * around. (98/105)

Rnd 2: *K4, P3. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 3: *K2tog, K2, P3. Repeat from * around. (84/90)

Rnd 4: *K3, P3. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 5: *P3, K1, K2tog. Repeat from * around. (70/75)

Rnd 6: *P3, K2. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 7: *P2tog, P1, K2. Repeat from * around. (56/60)

Rnd 8: *P2, K2. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 9: *K2, P2tog. Repeat from * around. (42/45)

Rnd 10: *K2, P1. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 11: *K2tog, P1. Repeat from * around. (28/30)

Rnd 12: *K1, P1. Repeat from * around.

Rnd 13: *P1, K2tog. Repeat from * around. (14/15)

Leave stitches on the needle. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Using a darning needle, pull the tail through the remaining stitches to bind off. Secure end and trim/darn in.

If you have extended the body length and prefer a beret style hat, block over a dinner plate.