Equipment:
Yarn: dark grey, dark blue, white and a small amount of red. I used Moda Vera Marvel 8ply but you can use whatever you have
Hook: I used a 3.5mm. Use the hook that gives you the closest stitches for the yarn you're using - you don't want any stuffing peaking through
Extras: yarn needle for darning in ends and embellishments; round black button, polyfill or preferred stuffing.
Abbreviations:
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet two stitches together
CH = Chain
Pattern:
Main Body
To help keep track of the colours, I'm going to colour code the text as well.
Create a magic circle with the blue
Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle
Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)
Round 3: Switch to grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 4: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next stitch, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 5: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 6: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 4 stitch. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 7: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 5 stitch. Repeat from * around (42)
Rounds 8 & 9: In grey SC around
This is where things get tricky! This next bit is R2's fancy marking so there will be a bit of colour changing. Hopefully my colour coded instructions will help.
Rounds 10 - 12: Grey SC 4, blue SC 4, grey SC 1, blue SC 4, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1) x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 1, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1)x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 4
If that hasn't helped, here is a chart. Chart is worked from left to right
Round 15: In grey SC around
Round 16: In blue SC around
Round 17: In grey SC around
Round 18: Attach white yarn, SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 19: In white SC around
Round 20: In white SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 21: In white SC around
Round 22: In white SC in first 4 stitches in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 23: In white SC around
Round 24 to 30: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 31: In white SC around
Round 32 - 34: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Stuff R2's body moderately firmly at this point before beginning the decrease.
Round 35: In white in the back loop only, *SC in 5 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 36: *SC in 4 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 37: *SC in 3 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 38: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 39: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 40: SC around
Round 41: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 42: *2SC first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around (24)
Add a bit of stuffing to his "foot"
Round 43: In back loops only SC all stitches (24)
Round 44: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 45: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 46: SC2tog around (6)
FO and leave a long tail. Use the tail to draw last 6 stitches together to close.
Arms - make 2
Each arm is made from 2 pieces (top and bottom) that are made as two sides (confused yet?) It'll make sense as we go along).
Top part (make 4 in total)
The first few rows are work in the round, then the rest is worked in rows
Create a magic circle with white
Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle
Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)
Round 3: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across 6 stitches
Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 6: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * across (8)
Row 7: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 8: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * across (10)
FO and leave a long tail for stitching together
Bottom part ( make 4 in total)
Row 1: Chain 7 in white. Turn and SC in second chain from hook. SC across (6)
Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 3: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next two stitches (5)
Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next stitch (4)
Rows 6 - 8: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 9: Switch to blue, CH 1, turn, SC across row
Rows 10 - 21: CH 1, turn, SC across row
FO and leave a long tail for stitching together
Assembly
More photos coming soon
Take two bottom parts and line up with wrong sides facing. This piece is going to overlap the top part, so it's not stitched all the way around. Before starting to stitch, lay the blue end over the top piece. Line up the blue end with the first round of the circular stitches. Start stitching from where the blue section stops overlapping. Work down the blue stitches with blue yarn, then change to white and work around the white part then change to blue and work back up the other side. Add a little stuffing. Slip the top part between the two blue flaps and stitch the flaps to the top part.
Once both arms are together you can attach them to the body. Line them up so the top is just peaking above the first row of grey and the blue markings on the white is centred between them.
Thread your darning needle with a long piece of grey yarn. Tie a knot using both ends (so 2 strands will be pulled through). Make sure the knot is big enough to not slip through the hole in the top of the arm (from the magic circle). Pass the yarn through the middle of one arm, through the body and out the other arm. Tie a knot to keep the arms tight on the body, but not squeezing it too much. Pass the yarn back through the arm, through the body and back out the other arm. I did this a couple of times, stitching over the existing knot to make it look like the screw attaching the arm. Attaching the arms using this technique also allows the legs to move back and forward.
Stitch detail
Using some grey yarn to stitch some details over the blue stitches on the front (see photo above). Use blue yarn to attach a button for his "eye" and then stitch around it for the "casing". Using a little bit of red yarn, to the bottom right of the eye make a red indicator light.
And voila! Your R2D2 is done :)
As usual, if you have any questions, leave me a comment and I'll get back to you when I can.
R2D2 and anything Star Wars related on this blog remain the property of Lucasfilm Ltd
this is great! hopefully I'll have time one day to make one for someone. :D
ReplyDeleteThis is soooo cute! My son is recently into star wars.. now I'll have to make this! Have you thought of selling them on etsy?
ReplyDeleteyou 'think' it turned out pretty well? it turned out awesome! congrats to you! i'll make one for myself, thanks for sharing your pattern ;)
ReplyDeleteMy eldest brother was shocked to see the finished work.. I knew it from the start, HE WANT IT!!! hahahahha... Thank you so much for sharing your pattern... Now I have to make 10 of this, plus Yoda, Han Solo and Princess Liea for his friends, a die hard Star Wars fan... Ooohhh dear... xxx
ReplyDeleteHi! I am making this for a friend, and I was just wondering, where are rows 13 and 14? Do I just continue onto 15 or am I missing something?
ReplyDeleteGreat pattern though! I'm loving it so far! Thanks for sharing!
You're the first person to notice this! It's been a while since I've made one of these, but I'd say my counting is off and I mis-numbered the steps. Sorry for the confusion!
DeleteHi Penelope! He is awesome!! I have a question : what size is the finished project? BTW, I made Yoda from your pattern. My grandson loved him. Thanks!!!
ReplyDeleteHi Penelope! He is awesome!! I have a question : what size is the finished project? BTW, I made Yoda from your pattern. My grandson loved him. Thanks!!!
ReplyDelete