Crochet Diagonal Stripe & Colour Changes

I've had some questions about how I achieved the stripe on my Hook Monster crochet case. I think the easiest way to explain it would be to draw a chart, so here it is!

As this project was crocheted in the round, so the pattern is worked from right to left each row.

In each row, the colour for the stripe is worked into the second coloured stitch from the row before. The main colour is carried between the stitches and the working yarn at the back. The second colour is left attached and is picked up again on the next round.

To ensure even colouring in your stitches, there is a trick when changing colours. I'll do my best to explain this in words, but I can feel a photo or video tutorial coming on :)
While working the last stitch in the main colour, change to the second colour before pulling the last loop through. So, for an SC stitch you would have a loop on your hook in the main colour, insert hook into the working stitch and YO with main colour and pull through. You now have two loops on the hook in the main colour. Now, yarn over with the new colour and pull through the two loops. Continue working as many coloured stitches as required and use the same method to change back to the main colour.

R2D2

This is the second Star Wars character that I've made for my friend Dave. I couldn't find a pattern I liked, so I improvised my own. I think it turned out pretty well :)

Equipment:
Yarn: dark grey, dark blue, white and a small amount of red. I used Moda Vera Marvel 8ply but you can use whatever you have
Hook: I used a 3.5mm. Use the hook that gives you the closest stitches for the yarn you're using - you don't want any stuffing peaking through
Extras: yarn needle for darning in ends and embellishments; round black button, polyfill or preferred stuffing.


Abbreviations:
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet two stitches together
CH = Chain


Pattern:
Main Body
To help keep track of the colours, I'm going to colour code the text as well.
Create a magic circle with the blue
Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle
Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)
Round 3: Switch to grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 4: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next stitch, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 5: *in blue 2SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, change to grey and SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 6: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 4 stitch. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 7: In grey *2SC first stitch, SC in next 5 stitch. Repeat from * around (42)
Rounds 8 & 9: In grey SC around 


This is where things get tricky! This next bit is R2's fancy marking so there will be a bit of colour changing. Hopefully my colour coded instructions will help. 
Rounds 10 - 12: Grey SC 4, blue SC 4, grey SC 1, blue SC 4, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1) x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 1, (grey SC 1, blue SC 1)x4, grey SC 4, blue SC 4
If that hasn't helped, here is a chart. Chart is worked from left to right






Round 15: In grey SC around 
Round 16: In blue SC around
Round 17: In grey SC around 
Round 18: Attach white yarn, SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 19: In white SC around
Round 20: In white SC in first 4 stitches, in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 21: In white SC around
Round 22: In white SC in first 4 stitches in blue SC 8 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 23: In white SC around
Round 24 to 30: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Round 31: In white SC around
Round 32 - 34: In white SC 6 stitches, in blue SC 3 stitches, continue rest of round in white
Stuff R2's body moderately firmly at this point before beginning the decrease.
Round 35: In white in the back loop only, *SC in 5 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (36)
Round 36: *SC in 4 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (30)
Round 37: *SC in 3 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (24)
Round 38: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 39: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 40: SC around
Round 41: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 42: *2SC first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around (24)
Add a bit of stuffing to his "foot"
Round 43: In back loops only SC all stitches (24)
Round 44: *SC in 2 stitches, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (18)
Round 45: *SC in 1 stitch, SC2tog. Repeat from * around (12)
Round 46: SC2tog around (6)
FO and leave a long tail. Use the tail to draw last 6 stitches together to close.


Arms - make 2
Each arm is made from 2 pieces (top and bottom) that are made as two sides (confused yet?) It'll make sense as we go along).
Top part (make 4 in total)
The first few rows are work in the round, then the rest is worked in rows

Create a magic circle with white

Round 1: SC 6 times into magic circle

Round 2: 2SC into each SC (12)

Round 3: *2SC first stitch, SC in next stitch. Repeat from * around (18)

Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across 6 stitches

Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 6: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * across (8)

Row 7: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 8: CH 1, turn, *2SC in stitch, SC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * across (10)

FO and leave a long tail for stitching together

Bottom part ( make 4 in total)
Row 1: Chain 7 in white. Turn and SC in second chain from hook. SC across (6)
Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 3: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next two stitches (5)
Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC across row
Row 5: CH 1, turn, SC first two stitches, SC2tog, SC next stitch (4)
Rows 6 - 8: CH 1, turn, SC across row

Row 9: Switch to blue, CH 1, turn, SC across row

Rows 10 - 21: CH 1, turn, SC across row

FO and leave a long tail for stitching together

Assembly

More photos coming soon

To assemble an arm you need 2 top bits and 2 bottom bits. Line up two top parts with wrong sides facing. Use one of the yarn tails to stitch around the edges to join. Before closing up, add some stuffing. Not too much, you just want a little.
Take two bottom parts and line up with wrong sides facing. This piece is going to overlap the top part, so it's not stitched all the way around. Before starting to stitch, lay the blue end over the top piece. Line up the blue end with the first round of the circular stitches. Start stitching from where the blue section stops overlapping. Work down the blue stitches with blue yarn, then change to white and work around the white part then change to blue and work back up the other side. Add a little stuffing. Slip the top part between the two blue flaps and stitch the flaps to the top part.


Once both arms are together you can attach them to the body. Line them up so the top is just peaking above the first row of grey and the blue markings on the white is centred between them.
Thread your darning needle with a long piece of grey yarn. Tie a knot using both ends (so 2 strands will be pulled through). Make sure the knot is big enough to not slip through the hole in the top of the arm (from the magic circle). Pass the yarn through the middle of one arm, through the body and out the other arm. Tie a knot to keep the arms tight on the body, but not squeezing it too much. Pass the yarn back through the arm, through the body and back out the other arm. I did this a couple of times, stitching over the existing knot to make it look like the screw attaching the arm. Attaching the arms using this technique also allows the legs to move back and forward.


Stitch detail
Using some grey yarn to stitch some details over the blue stitches on the front (see photo above). Use blue yarn to attach a button for his "eye" and then stitch around it for the "casing". Using a little bit of red yarn, to the bottom right of the eye make a red indicator light.


And voila! Your R2D2 is done :)


As usual, if you have any questions, leave me a comment and I'll get back to you when I can.


R2D2 and anything Star Wars related on this blog remain the property of Lucasfilm Ltd

Hook Monster

As I've been getting more and more into crochet, I've gathered quite a collection of hooks. I had this lovely knitting bag that had pockets to keep needles and hooks in, but they were always falling out or slipping through the lining into the abyss. So I stopped keeping the hooks in the bag. I had planned on buying a pencil case or pencil tin to keep them in, but then decided I should crochet a little case. And that is how the hook monster was born!

It took a few tries to get the shape and the opening right. When I finished, the opening looked like a little mouth - so I decided to add some eyes. I think he looks pretty cute!

It's a pretty straight forward pattern, and it can easily be adapted to any size - a bigger version would also work well for knitting needles or even pens & pencils.

Materials
I just used some old yarn I had lying around from years ago. I bought it at a cheap shop (Crazy Clarks) and no longer have the ball bands. It feels like cotton and is about sport weight. You could use just about any yarn you have lying around.
To achieve nice, tight stitches (if they're too open, your smaller hooks may fall out) I used a 2mm hook.

Instructions
I was inspired by the construction of the hexipuffs used in the Beekeeper's Quilt by tiny owl. It's cast on in a straight line but worked in the round. This is the first time I've encountered this method, but it's apparently used to create socks from toe up.

I started with a chain of 10, but increase the number of chains to suit the width needed. Single crochet in one loop only of first chain from hook. Continue along until the end of the chain. Single crochet in end chain once more.
Now single crochet up the other side of the foundation chain in the other loop not already worked. Clear as mud? I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention to what I was doing, but ended up with 2 more stitches than double the foundation chain (so 22 stitches) and this worked out well.
Once you get back to the start, just keep going and work in the round without joining. As you can see, I also added a blue spiral stripe to mine. You can do almost whatever you want to decorate your case.
I kept going in spirals until the case was about 5/6 of the length of my hook. Again, this was a bit of an arbitrary decision - I just kept going until the length seemed "right".
To make the opening I worked until I got to one of the sides, chained 12, skipped the next 12 stitches and then rejoined and worked around again until I got to the chain (10 stitches). To get a nice opening the chain section needs to be wider than the stitched section. Next I worked 12 single crochets around (not through) the chain. Continue working in the round until the desired length is met. Once the case is long enough, starting from the side, single crochet the next two opposing stitches together (that is, one stitch from each side). Continue until the top is closed up. FO and weave in end. Attach some eyes to the front and voila!

If you have any questions about the instructions, please let me know in the comments and I'll do my best to explain :)